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Kuzu zang po la from Bhutan!

Thursday, November 19, 2009

This isn't the kind of trip that incorporates time for blogging. And that's the best kind of trip, I think. I have hundreds of photos and stories and bits of trivia to tell you when I'm home but for now, let me just say I'm having an amazing time. I had extremely high expectations for this holiday and they have been exceeded. If you have the time and the cash available, you really need to come check out this kingdom in the clouds.

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Time for a geography lesson.

Tuesday, November 03, 2009

Ooooookay, people. It has become blatantly obvious that many (uh, most) of you don't know where Bhutan is. That's alright, not everyone is as much of a geography geek as me. Also, it's not a very big country. To help you out, I've swiped a bunch of maps from all over the Internet.

I hope this side of the planet is at least somewhat familiar to you.

Focus on the blue blob.

Now, getting warmer...

The BBC map gets political by calling the bit to the north Tibet instead of China.

And here we are. I'll be arriving at Paro in the west, the location of Bhutan's only airport. In 11 days, I hope to make it a little past Bumthang in the centre/east, and back again.

Actually, I hope this map is the most accurate because it is so very charming.

Extra credit: Bhutan is situated on the southern slope of the Himalayas. The mountain range was formed through the process of orogeny which occurs when two continental plates collide and layers of rock are thrust upwards. The Indian plate is drifting northwards and is subducting beneath the Eurasian plate. The Tibetan Plateau is on the higher Eurasian plate while Bhutan is on the lower Indian plate.

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Hallowe'en sooooooon!

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Around Toronto:

Comrags Pumpkin Man
Pumpkin Man at Comrags on Queen West

Fail Whale Jack'o'lantern
Twitter fail whale jack'o'lantern (the original, for the unfamiliar non-Tweeters)

Guinness Black
Guinness Black, Asian horror film style

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U2ube discovery - Toronto 1

Friday, October 23, 2009

I adore this official U2ube video showing the scene in Toronto on September 16th. I was somewhere down there, in the swarming masses.

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List: Bangkok To-Do

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Vintage Line-up 2

Two weeks from now, I should be on my way to YYZ for my flight to HGK and onward to BKK. Although the focus of my holiday is Bhutan, no question, I'm also really excited to return to Bangkok. I was there for just four nights in 2007 and there are still lots of things for me to see and do. I'll be in Bangkok for five nights (three full days and two half days) this time. Here is my list of how I want to spend my time in Bangkok. I have often been criticized for planning ahead too much when it comes to holidays. I am a planner - I feel uneasy when no decisions or intentions have been laid out for something. Also, I don't want to arrive somewhere new, then set down to start thinking about where to go and when things are open and so on. It's before the trip starts that I want to spend time doing that sort of research - it's a waste of valuable hours in a new place to begin travel planning from scratch upon arrival. So, I plan ahead and keep a general idea of the days I have available to me before I arrive, that way I never show up at a museum or palace on a Monday when it's closed on Mondays. There is always time for spur-of-the-moment changes and unexpected opportunities or alterations to plans due to bad weather or local advice, of course.

Bangkok To-Do:
-Wat Arun, which I didn't see yet. Arriving by river ferry at early morning would be ideal.
-Lumphini Park and Suan Lum Night Market (if it is still in operation)
-I want to have a cocktail at the 61st storey Vertigo Moon Bar! Wow!
-Eat street food along Yaowarat Road (Chinatown) and Lumphini (avoiding food poisoning this time if possible)
-Ride the SkyTrain
-Return to Chatuchak Weekend Market
-Visit branches of my favourite Japanese stores in the Siam Square area (LOFT, Muji, Kinokuniya)
-Check out some of the other fashionable boutiques and shopping centres near Siam Square
-Possibly take a cooking class, if I can find one whose daily menu appeals to me for the day I can spare
-Walk around the older neighbourhoods, if I can figure out where these are...
-Drinks lots of fresh mango, pineapple and coconut drinks! Mmmm.


Is there anything else I should add?

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Muskoka Weekend

Wednesday, October 07, 2009

Inn at Christie's Mill

cottage signpost

lily pads

mushrooms

I was treated to a weekend out of the city in the 'cottage country' district of Ontario called Muskoka. It was great to be out in the fresh air and the trees even if it rained much of the time.

There are a lot of people in Toronto who head up that way every summer weekend, but I'm not one of them. I'm not from a cottage-y family. When I was in high school, I spent a very trying few weeks on Lake Rosseau as an au pair for a couple of rather spoiled kids. Also, I had a high school friend whose father kept a place on Lake Joseph, where I snowmobiled and canoed a few times. This weekend, I kept trying to remember landmarks or towns or anything to figure out where I'd been before, but my memories of those places are not very specific.

One of the sites I saw over the weekend was the
Big Chute marine railway which is unique in North America. Instead of passing through a standard lock system to carry watercraft through the 17.7 m change in elevation at this point on the Trent-Severn Waterway, boats are secured by slings on a large carriage, which moves along a railway track. The boats are lifted out of the water, carried over the waterfall (and road) and are gently placed into the water again.

collecting the boats

crossing the grade

blocking the road

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six cups of green tea

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Detail of tea vending machine

I've just this week passed the mark of writing here at Greentea.tk for six years. Since I pondered the third anniversary, a whole lot has happened although very little has actually changed, if you get my drift.

The first time I ever encountered the word 'blog' was in a 2002 Sunday Times Travel article which discussed how disgruntled travellers were posting online to spread the word about bad hotels and sub-par tours. Via the old JapanToday.com forum, which I was hooked on for a few months in grad school, I found Kim's 35 Degrees blog. It was the first one I really read. I came to the conclusion that 'blogging' was something ex-pats did to keep in touch with friends and family in the homeland. I now know that's not true although ex-pat blogs are still the most interesting to me. 'Stranger in a strange land' is a compelling theme.

When I moved home from England in 2003, I enjoyed almost a year of funemployment during which I cultivated many hobbies like knitting, kendo, political volunteerism, cooking, weight training and yes, blogging. Back then, I wrote more than I do now, although I posted far fewer photos.

The first two years of my posts are lost forever since they were hosted on my old .Mac account via iBlog. The iBlog program required me to figure out a lot of my own formatting via HTML. I was not always successful in my trial-and-error coding. I should have used the free Blogger platform right from the start.

Over six years, my most popular content has been the two posts with 17 comments each about the classic French Immersion tune C'est l'Halloween. My visitor stats start to climb every October, but people come here looking for that song all year round. The runners-up for biggest traffic drawing searches are Shinzaburo or Ichizawa Hanpu, 'winter fashion', and "I'm a vegetarian but my boyfriend isn't" even though my post was about the opposite scenario which I'm no longer in anyway.

Speaking of hits and visitors, I know there are lots of people reading who have never commented. Why not make my day and 'de-lurk' just this once. Say hello!

Original Green Tea
Drink Green Tea!

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weekend still-life

Monday, September 28, 2009

sick weekend
(not pictured: a jumbo box of Kleenex with lotion)

Q: What do you call a day of good health after two days spent sick in bed?

A: Monday

Sigh...

cozy slippers
(Look at these ridiculously cozy slippers my parents brought me from England! Bring on cold floors in winter!)

Like loose electricity

Sunday, September 27, 2009

kick-off

Lifetime total of U2 concerts attended: now 8!

The trip to Boston to see last Sunday's show was really great... up until arrival at Gillette Stadium in Foxboro where the GA line-up was in total chaos in comparison to the Toronto Rogers Centre queues. Somehow, I ended up within the 'inner circle' of the stage set-up for this show as well as the first two. At Foxboro, despite being several hundred people back in the line-up, we found a spot dead centre by Bono's mic, just three people back from the front rail of the stadium. I'm still not sure how it happened. Maybe it had something to do with running to the field as dozens of cops and security guards screamed at us to walk for our own safety. Sunday's show's set-list was identical to Thursday's, but I still enjoyed it since the vantage point was so good. Standing at the centre, so close, I could really get a good look at the band interacting with each other, and they seemed to have quite a few jokes together that night. Anyway, the concert went off, then we tried to leave afterwards. I have never felt so appreciative of the Rogers Centre being right downtown, because it took four hours to get from the Gillette Stadium parking lot back to Boston. That included two hours just to get out of the parking lot. It was horrendous. I would go as far as saying that the trip home was so bad, it wouldn't have been worth going to the concert if we hadn't been front centre. We got back to A's apartment at 3am, I took a cab to Logan Airport at 4:15, my flight left at 6am, I landed in Toronto at 7:30 then I was in my desk before 9am. Rough night, but for a U2 show, I'll do it.

I'd have to say that in terms of the set-list and the whole emotionally overwhelming quasi-religious rock experience, the Vertigo tour was better for me. But, I'm just spoiled because I've seen five tours!

So, that's the end of my 360° tour experience. When the DVD comes out, I'll finally get to see what was going on with that massive stage, i.e. the entertainment for those in the seats. Farewell to The Claw, farewell to U2! Thanks to the people who made those hours of waiting less painful!

Farewell to The Claw

The rest of the photos and video are here.

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The right to be ridiculous is something I hold dear.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Catching my breath after two shows of my 'three shows in five days' U2 frenzy.

The Unforgettable Fire
just Bono
Ultraviolet Love

Too sleep deprived for proper sentence structure. Also, my right eye got damaged somehow this week and I can't see properly to type. Anyway.

Key points:

Spending the day in the GA line-up on Wednesday and meeting people from all across North America
Time with friends during all that waiting
Scoring a primo spot at the front rail, so close I couldn't even see the stage design
Bono name-checking Toronto randomness like the TTC and Dupont Street
More smiles and love from Adam Clayton
Hearing and seeing so many of my favourite songs like

Until The End Of The World:
"I reached out for the one I tried to destroy"

The Unforgettable Fire:

New Year's Day:

Mysterious Ways:

Plus Stay (acoustic), Ultraviolet, Magnificent, City of Blinding Lights...
Also, the total groove overhaul of 'Go Crazy' which I so dislike on the album (example)
And... the second ever performance of Your Blue Room, which I feel was a gift for the geekiest of the U2 fans (um, like me).

satellite hook-up

More soon!

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finished project: Eyelet Cap

Monday, September 07, 2009

Vogue Knitting Eyelet Cap

I finished knitting the Eyelet Cap from the latest issue of Vogue Knitting (the one with ANTM Cycle 11 winner McKey on the cover). Thanks to Alexis for lending me the magazine.

Vogue Knitting Eyelet Cap - front

Here are the specs:
Pattern: Eyelet Cap, Vogue Knitting Fall 2009
Yarn: exactly 1 skein of Butterfly Mercerized Cotton Super 10 in an enchanting emerald green. I used cotton instead of the recommended merino since I tend to get itchy around the forehead.
Modifications: I made the fold-over ribbed band only 12 cm instead of the 20 cm in the pattern because it just looked like a little too much. Also, I used 3 mm needled throughout instead of the 3.5 mm ones in the pattern since everything I make turns out too big.
What I like: I like the eyelet pattern
What I don't like: The back of the hat is kind of too saggy. Maybe the weight of the cotton is to blame. Perhaps a spin in the dryer would tighten the whole thing up...
Things to work on: I did not make any errors at all in this project, but the shape of my finished product is much more cone-shaped than the finished one from the magazine. I guess my knitting style still has some shaping quirks.
How I'll be wearing it: with a little bit of fringe sticking out the front.
What's next: another lacy cotton beret!

Vogue Knitting Eyelet Cap - above
The shortened ribbed band

Vogue Knitting Eyelet - Cap side
Saggy cone at the crown of the hat

Pompeii

Monday, August 31, 2009

August has come to an end and I'm reminded that it has been ten years since I spent a summer in Italy. As an undergrad archaeology major, it was necessary for me to do a field school course in order to complete my program. There were field schools in Toronto and in other nearby locations but, me being me, I chose to go to the world's most famous archaeological city and UNESCO World Heritage Site: Pompeii.

There's no way I could sum up the whole Pompeii summer: there are too many stories to tell even a decade later. There were about 90 people on the project in 1999, students and staff from all over the world. We lived in tents at Camping Spartacus for the whole season where we were fed cappuccino breakfasts, pasta lunches and delectable woodoven pizza dinners. The campground was located directly beside the Circumvesuviana train line. The first night, when I was tucked up in my sleeping bag, the ground started shaking and there was a deafening rumble: I thought Vesuvius was erupting! It was just a train passing mere metres away from my tent. We were followed around by stray dogs everywhere. I picked up a decent Italian vocabulary quite quickly. We learned a lot about the physics and the chemistry of volcanic eruptions. As archaeologists, we became tourist attractions in our own right since we were photographed, videoed and interviewed. We also got special behind-the-scenes visits to several archaeological sites in the Naples area. Every morning and afternoon, the group would hike from the lower, modern town of Pompei through the Porta Marina and the forum of the ancient city all the way up to the Porta Ercolano, where the excavation was centred. And every evening, in the free hour or two between work and the dinner bell, I'd explore the ruins. My official archaeologists' permit allowed me to walk around anywhere, so I saw a significant portion of the city that's off limits to regular visitors.

It was my experiences exploring Pompeii and observing visitors that inspired me to pursue graduate studies in archaeological site management instead of specializing the archaeology of any one culture or region. There were so many questions that came to mind on site: how is it possible to care for an entire open-air ancient city like this? How can visitor access and site protection be balanced? How is it possible for visitors to understand such a large, complex archaeological site? What about the large unexcavated sections in the city - can these be exposed and studied even as so much of the rest of Pompeii is crumbling?

The field school, Anglo-American Project in Pompeii is still running (I think...) and it even got a fancy Archaeology Magazine treatment.

Back in the days before Flickr, I used to make elaborate scrapbooks to show off my photos. I couldn't bear to tear out any of the 18 rolls of pictures from my Pompeii albums to scan them (they are glued down pretty solidly), so I took a few shots of scrapbook pages with photos in situ. That's a little archaeology lingo for you, there. You're welcome.

in the trenches
That's me in the centre, in my trench which was part of the sidewalk on the Via Narcissus (that's the little angled street just east of Via Consolare). It turns out that my square was the spot where people dumped broken pottery. I uncovered stacked-up sherds of the same vessels, where someone had picked up the smashed pieces, cradled them in hand, and then placed them in the alley.

Standing Monument Analysis
One of the lessons at the Pompeii field school that wasn't at most other field schools: standing monument analysis! Also, I learned how to survey manually, although I've since lost that skill.

finds
My personal best artifact that summer was an ornate copper alloy handle. The beautiful green of the metal stood out from the gray-brown soil.

the Ankara flotation method
General on-site activities. That's me with the pick axe.

in the peristyle garden
Excavations around the peristyle garden in the house.

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I'm going!

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

So, my trip to Bhutan is officially booked.

As long as my personal well being, the political climate in Bangkok and the Cathay Pacific and Drukair flight schedules all align auspiciously, I'll be checking out a country that's really different from everywhere else I've been. Very exciting!

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Little India

Sunday, August 23, 2009

I heard about the Festival of South Asia this weekend and I was keen to go. I've been to the Little Italy street festival so many times, but never the Little India one. So, I dragged Jack & Marjorie there on Friday night. I expected street food and booths and lots of activity.

IMG_0451

However, Little India wasn't busy at all. There was no hint of this on the website but Friday night was only the 'dance showcase' (including a 'So You Think You Can Bollywood Dance?' contest). The street food wouldn't be set up until Saturday afternoon. But we made the most of it by strolling past the sari shops. I wish I could get away with wearing "salwar kameez" (long tunic over loose trousers) without being branded an eccentric WASP. They look so comfy.

IMG_0450

IMG_0442

IMG_0448

IMG_0443

Jack & Marjorie are fans of Lahore Tikka House. We went in for dinner because it was the closest thing to the street food I was expecting. Apparently, this restaurant has been under construction for years and in the meantime, there is a temporary set-up. The system is complete chaos - enter via a shack, walk down a plywood hallway, detour right through the kitchen were the naan bread is being torn off a massive heap of dough and tossed into the wood oven, then pass beneath another series of tarps until being seated on plastic chairs in an enormous tented parking lot area. Ordering and paying for food involves lining up away from the dining tent. I had no idea there was anywhere like this in Toronto. The atmosphere was like a big party. There seemed to be a hundred employees dashing between the tables. Perhaps because the kitchen areas are still under construction and washing dishes isn't possible, plastic cutlery and Styrofoam plates and cups where provided, which wasn't an encouraging sign. The good news was that the food was great. This is Pakistani food, not technically Indian, although a lot of the dishes were similar. The difference is that all the meat is Halal and beef is on the menu. Also, the spices seemed richer to me. My favourite dish was the veggie combo sizzler but the lamb gosht was really tender and piquant.

Lahore Tikka House, Gerrard Street

Lahore Tikka House, Gerrard Street

Lahore Tikka House, Gerrard Street

Lahore Tikka House, Gerrard Street

Lahore Tikka House, Gerrard Street

Naan bread and sides

sizzling veggies

Friday night's trip to the east end of town was pretty much it for my weekend. I spent Saturday and Sunday mostly at home in bed reading and knitting because I was feeling sick. Ah, well...

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hands and feet

Friday, August 07, 2009

At the beginning of that (godawful) 'Lost In Translation' film, Scarlett Johansson mumbles something about girls who take mundane photos of their feet.

Yes. I am guilty, guilty, guilty of taking rather cliché photos of my feet. When I'm travelling, I look up, down, and all around me and sometimes, I like to remember that I was rooted to that particular spot, even for a few moments. For example:

Colonial Toes
refreshingly cool vintage tiles in my Phnom Penh hotel room...

Parque Josone's green pond
the eerily green pond in a romantic Varadero park...

Sweet Steps
the elaborate staircase at an upper east side NYC candy store...

Shoes: $3, Outback Safari: $500, View: Priceless
resting my exhausted self after climbing in extreme desert heat...

Urban Safari
encountering robust insects on a Hanoi street...

indulgent tourist's snapshot
a moment of Caribbean beach perfection.


I am also quite guilty of the disembodied hand photo, but due to my need to hold the camera with my right hand, these pictures all turn out to be more similar than the foot ones. Still, they appeal to my senses.

IMG_5025
I remember the sizzling heat of Uluru's surface,

texture
the rubbery, muscular texture of an Asian elephant's trunk,

Weekend!
the warmth of a sunny weekend,

pinky
the freshness of a suburban lotus pond,

Oishii!
the exotic flavour of black sesame soft serve in Kyoto,

the red centre
and the reason for the expression 'The Red Centre".

I rather like my hands and feet photos. If I acknowledge the cliché, it's fine to continue, yes?

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List: Proof that I'm trapped in the '90s

Wednesday, July 29, 2009



-Achtung Baby remains my all time favourite album. Since 1991, nothing else has come close.
-In a world where skinny jeans are a fashion must-have, I'm still wearing boot-cut dark indigo denim.
-I am constantly saying '95 when I mean 2005, '97 when I mean 2007, et cetera. Sorry, everyone.
-I'm still disappointed that Adorable and Jesus Jones never made it big. Glasvegas sounds like a Scottish Adorable, though, so I like them.
-Perhaps I'm slow to grasp trends, but I still watch The Simpsons every week in the hope that it will be funny again.
-I maintain a preference for very round-toed footwear.
-I still have a crush on the young Ewan McGregor.
-There are French francs and Italian lira in my collection of travel money. I should get rid of them, yes?
-I still find 'Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels' to be hilarious. Same goes for AbFab.
-Great big boots paired with a delicate, flowery vintage dress is a reasonable outfit, in my opinion.
-When I think of Radiohead, acoustic "Thinking About You" comes to mind rather than the later experimental stuff.
-Although I've removed the other extra piercings, I have yet to take out the pointless ring at the top of my left ear that I got in 1997.
-ZooTV can never be beaten as the most amazing concert experience ever.

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Travellers wanted: join me in Bhutan!

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Please note! I've changed the itinerary date to November 10th-20th!

Drukair, Royal Bhutanese Airlines
I've been dreaming of taking a trip to Bhutan for several years now and I think 2009 is the time to make it happen. I am now searching for travel companions to join me on this trip.

I've been in touch with Sonam from Bhutan Excursions to plan an itinerary for late October to early November mid November. More details on that later. Bhutan is a tourist oddity because visitors are not permitted to make their own way around the country. There are no backpackers allowed. The government has decided to adhere to a policy of 'high value, low volume'. This means that the cost to visit Bhutan is high - income from tourist fees brings in money for the health and education systems. The number of foreign visitors into Bhutan is kept low, making for a higher quality trip and less outside influence on traditional culture.

This is important: the daily tourist tariff for visiting Bhutan INCLUDES hotels, transportation, a driver, all meals, an English-speaking guide and entry permits.

Here's why 2009 is the year to go: in 2008, the base rate was $200 US per night. In 2009, the fee was set to be raised to $250 US. However, due to the economic downturn around the globe, the cost per night is now available for $180 US (for a stay of 9+ nights). As soon as the world economy picks up, the rate will go up again to $250 per day and I won't be able to afford that for a long time. So, please consider this situation - if you've ever wanted to see Bhutan, take advantage of the price dip now with me!

The itinerary I've set out with Bhutan Excursions is 11 days/10 nights, meaning the cost will be $1800 US plus airfare and possibly more if we have an odd number or a tiny group (single supplement for the hotels). Airfare from Bangkok to Paro on Drukair is $800 return.

At the moment, the tour would be from October 27th to November 7th November 10th to 20th. The itinerary is similar to this this Autumn Jambay Lhakhang Drup festival tour, except that the festival destination is now the Sumdrang Kangsol festival in Ura.

Day 1: arrival in Paro, evening visit to the town
Day 2: hike to the famous Taktsang Monastary, the "Tiger's Nest", drive to the capital city, Thimphu
Day 3: visit Thimphu sights, drive to Punakha, the old capital via the Dochu La pass (3050 m altitude) for a view of the Himalayas
Day 4: driving via the Pele La pass (3300 m altitude) into the Bumthang Valleys to Jakar
Day 5: all day watching sacred dances at the festival in Ura
Day 6: sightseeing in Jakar in Bumthang
Day 7: driving back from Jakar to the Gangtey area, see the Phobjikha valley
Day 8: driving back from Gangtey to Paro via Thimphu
Day 9: Paro sightseeing - Drukgyel Dzong, Rinpung Dzong, Ta Dzong/National Museum, Kyichu Lakghang and farm houses
Day 10: Chele La Ridge pass (3750 m altitude) to Kung Karpo La hike (4100 m altitude) to Kila Gompa nunnery
Day 11: depart from Paro

Please think about how awesome this trip will be! I really want you to join me for this adventure of a lifetime! Contact me soon if you are interested or have any questions (andreakw at gmail dot com). Let's go!

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Toronto Cupcake Crawl

Sunday, July 12, 2009

perfect cuppies

I'm a little late reporting on this: on the 4th, Yelp Toronto hosted a cupcake crawl. About 20 of us tasted and compared the baked goods at eight spots across the city.

Here's what I learned on the cupcake crawl: there's no such thing as 'the best ___ in the city', only 'my favourite ___ in the city'. Some people proclaimed the best cupcakes of the day to be the ones I could barely tolerate. So, to each her own. Here's my verdict, in order of the day's tour.

Sweet Tooth
, 508 Danforth Ave.
I tried: vanilla
my rating: 2/5
I've had Sweet Tooth cupcakes before. I don't like the icing: it's gluey, greasy and too fake, without much flavour. The cake part is too dense. These may be the prettiest cakes, but I am not a fan.

Sweet Bliss Baking Company, 1304 Queen Street East
I tried: chocolate
my rating: 5/5
The icing is thick, flavourful and sugary. I love how generously it was swirled over the surface of the perfectly weighted cake. These ones are worth the trip across the city.

It's The Icing On The Cake, 1238 Queen Street East
I tried: chocolate
my rating: 3/5
The cake is so light, it's barely there. The icing is similarly ephemeral. The taste is very much like mass-produced supermarket baked goods. Inoffensive but nothing special.

Babycakes available at Lil' Baci, 892 Queen Street East
I tried: "Sometimes I Feel Like A Nut" (pb&choc) and One Love (mango)
my rating: 4/5
These cupcakes are very sophisticated. Lil' Baci has a whole menu of Babycakes goodies - 16 gourmet flavours! I was really impressed by how natural the icing tasted. The One Love icing had the flavour of real, ripe mango. Everyone raved about these cakes. I have to admit that I prefer cupcakes to have much more icing than these rather grown-up offerings with their mature icing-to-cake ratio. Otherwise, they were wonderful.

starred
pb&choc and mango

LPK's Culinary Groove, 718 Queen Street East
I tried: mini vanilla with brown sugar icing
my rating: 2/5
Keep in mind that I'm rating the cupcakes only. Ms. LPK seemed really kind and the store looked great and there were lots of interesting products for sale. But, I did not like the cupcakes at all. The icing tasted like pure softened butter without any other flavour. The cake also tasted only of butter. It was really unpleasant. Also, the baker told us the cupcakes, available in mini size only, are made daily from whatever leftover batter and icing they have in-store. However, each mini cupcake was $2.50! Why so expensive if this is just a use for leftovers? The price was more than a standard size cupcake at most of the other stores.

LPK's minis
assorted mini cupcakes

Miss Cora's Kitchen, 69 Kensington Avenue
I tried: mini red velvet and mini chocolate
my rating: 5/5
Wow, I am so happy that Cora's is in my neighbourhood because I absolutely loved these cakes. Perfect sugary, gritty icing just the way I like it, a decent cake to bite into without being too dense, high quality Callebaut cocoa. These were my favourite of the day and I will be back many times.

minis at Miss Cora's
pinky

Wanda's Pie In The Sky, 287 Augusta Avenue
I tried: vanilla with chocolate icing
my rating: 1/5
I love Wanda's pies, squares and cookies. But the cupcakes? Ew. The icing tasted like soap. The cake was so tough, I could barely swallow it. I don't know how Wanda gets pie so right and cupcakes soooo wrong. Avoid.

The Wedding Cake Shoppe, 859 College Street
I tried: cookies and cream
my rating: 4/5
Well, isn't this just the prettiest little shop around? I was pleasantly surprised to find this place and its tasty offerings just a few minutes walk from my apartment. There are interesting flavours of cupcake to choose from, such as spiced chai and dulce de leche. Like Babycakes, the icing and cake textures aren't amazing but overall, these were very good.

5 flavours
cakes on display

Sneaky Dee's, 431 College Street
I tried: vegan pumpkin chocolate chip with cream cheese icing
my rating: 3/5
This may seem like a mistake as Sneaky Dee's is more Tex-Mex punk dive bar than cupcake tea room. However, every Thursday, Sneak's gets an order of cupcakes to sell for the week. The vegan cake was super dense and it had a slightly off sweetness. However, I liked the pumpkin and chocolate chip combo so much that I was inspired to bake my own batch of pumpkin chocolate chip muffins.

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Toronto Crime Story Part 4: Secrets and Good Byes

Monday, June 29, 2009

Read Part 1 here, Part 2 here and Part 3 here.

Late spring 1919: Frank McCullough was returned to the Don Jail for killing Detective Frank Williams and Vera de Lavelle was also in the prison awaiting sentencing for aiding McCullough.

Frank McCullough was to be hanged on June 13th, his original execution date having passed when he was in hiding. Not surprisingly, Frank's pre-escape high spirits had come crashing down. He was said to be deeply despondent and spent his time reading the Bible and conversing with Reverend Nelles of the Church of the Stranger. Even though Frank and Vera were in the same building, they had no contact with each other and were only able to communicate via letters they passed to the press which were printed in the newspapers. These very public letters only boosted the interest and sympathy for the couple around Toronto.

People were still amazed that McCullough had managed to escape from the death row cell, but it turned out that Ms. Vera's nimbleness was not to be underestimated either. On May 29th, 1919, Vera and another female prisoner were working at hanging out laundry within the jail yard. The pair made use of a small ladder to hang up the wet laundry. This one ladder was not high enough to reach the top of the walls, however, they found another taller ladder somewhere. When nobody was watching, the ladies stood one ladder on top of the other, they pulled themselves over the 18 foot barrier and then they were free in Riverdale Park.

Now it was Vera's turn to go into hiding, although she was still able to send letters to Frank via the papers. She wrote,

When I was told that I would be kept in the jail till after the 13th, my life was unbearable, and I had to do something, so I could see what was going on about you. I never cease reading the papers, and I get all of them. Even the thought frightens me so much that I would to God it were never to happen, but you will always be to me my own. You know, dear, I could never breathe a word or tell our secret.

The 13th drew closer. Despite the efforts of the defence lawyers, notable citizens and the petitioned request of 20,000 people, no reprieve was granted. On the night of June 12th, thousands gathered below the jail walls. The mob cheered for Frank, sang songs and scuffled with police (35 were arrested). Frank spent much of his last night at his window in view of the crowd - he waved, sang, and gave signals to those below.

When the sun rose on June 13th, Frank ate a big breakfast of ham and eggs, toast and tea, then he began prayers with Reverend Nelles. Just before 8 am, it was time. Frank gave the crowd one final farewell wave from the window before he walked the 40 paces from the death cell to the gallows.

walk to gallows
shadow of the gallows

Frank McCullough's last words, as the hood was being pulled over his head, were to Reverend Nelles: "This is going to be harder on you than on me." The trap door was sprung, McCullough fell through the floor and after 15 minutes, his pulse stopped. He was buried in the jail yard without a funeral. That was 90 years ago this month.

Epilogue:
A week after the execution, Reverend Nelles gave a sermon called "If I Were A Boy Again", based on his conversations with McCullough. The message of the sermon was clear: young boys, stay out of trouble.

Ms. Vera de Lavelle was at large for seven weeks before she turned herself in to police. Apparently everyone including detectives knew that she'd been staying near the corner of College and Beverly Streets. They declined to find and re-arrest her since they felt she had been through enough. For assisting in McCullough's escape and for her own prison break, she was sentenced to two months at a jail farm north of Toronto. She would not return to the Don Jail.

When she had finished her time, Vera sought to have her fiance's remains moved to a proper cemetery, but it doesn't appear that this ever happened.

In an interview given to the Toronto Star in July, 1919, Vera told a reporter that she intended to make a new start for herself, "turn over a new leaf". She admitted that she had been in the mob outside the jail on Frank's final night and that he had seen her and signaled a message to her. When asked if she and Frank had been officially married, Vera answered, "That is for you to find out. That is our secret."

Frank and Vera had their secrets, but the question is, did she know his big secret? Frank McCullough was not Frank McCullough at all. His real name was Leroy Swart. He was, in truth, a U.S. Army deserter who was heavily involved in burglary and robbery from Missouri to New York. Nobody, not his lawyers or the detectives or his supporters, knew that good old Frank was Leroy, who came to Toronto to evade punishment for desertion and repeated crime (I'm unsure who first discovered his true identity or when, but it was many years after the events of 1919). It seems as if "Frank" got away with one last trick at the expense of the law.

(desertion notice published in Mark Johnson's No Tears to the Gallows)

This is the end of the tale, or at least as much as anyone knows. There is no more record of Vera de Lavelle - she did turn over her new leaf and the secrets she shared with "Frank" were never known. As the Evening Telegram published on June 13th, 1919, "Frank McCullough will live forever in the calendar of crime as one of the most romantic figures in its history. From his murder of Williams, to his escape from the Don Castle, to the similar flight of his sweetheart, to the moment when for the last time he waved his hands in a brave farewell to the thousands who cheered from below, he has been a gallant blackguard."


Sources:
huge props to "No Tears to the Gallows: The Strange Case of Frank McCullough" by Mark Johnson
The Globe, archives available via the Toronto Public Library
Toronto Daily Star, archives available via the Toronto Public Library

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Fabulous Toronto!

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Fabulous Toronto!

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